Simming Pool and Spa Water Other Sanitizers

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Swimming Pool and Spa Water Other Water Sanitizers
Biguanides

Biguanides were originally developed as a surgery scrub disinfectant.

Chlorine and Bromine are considered halogens because they form a negative ion and are in group VII of the periodic chart. Biguanide is a NON-halogen. The chemical name is guanylguanidine [C2, H7 N5]. PolyHexaMethylene Biguanide also referred to as Polymeric Biguanide or simply PHMB is available under the trade names Baquacil TM, BaquaSpa TM and SoftSwim TM. .

It is the only non-halogen approved by the EPA for sanitizing, but it is not recommended by the National Pool and Spa Institute (NSPI) for use in spas and most swimming pools. It is NOT an oxidizer, so it will not break down body oils, waste and perspiration.

Biguanide is generally used in conjunction with algaecides and hydrogen peroxide for shocking. According to the users, the overall cost of maintenance is higher with Biguanides than with Chlorine.

Biguanide is not compatible with other pool chemicals that contain chlorine, bromine, iodine, silver, copper or persulfate. It is also not compatible with other household chemicals such as detergents, cleaners, etc. READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY!

We have had reports of Biguanides gumming up pool equipment especially DE and cartridge filters. People have said that sand filters gum up the LEAST with Biguanides but you MUST clean them every 3 or 4 weeks. This is in ADDITION to backwashing.

They are also known to cause a scum ring around pools and lots of foaming in spas.

To counter these drawbacks, the manufacturers also sell a wide selection of special additives such as filter cleaners, anti-foamers, anti-scum ring cleaners, algaecides, etc.

Most Biguanide systems include 7 special chemicals for start up and routine maintenance:

1.) Biguanide Solution to maintain 20 to 60 PPM (manufacturers disagree on the ranges)

2.) An Algaecide to be used weekly. (Seems to be some disagreement among the manufacturers as to whether Quats or PolyQuats are compatible.)

3.) Hydrogen Peroxide shock to be used monthly or as needed to maintain 20 to 60 PPM (manufacturers disagree on the ranges)

4.) A defoamer to be used as needed

5.) A poolside scum cleaner to be used as needed

6.) A filter cleaner to be used about every 2 months

7. A filter aid (flocculant)

We have seen lots of negative comments about Biguanides for one reason or another. We have also seen lots of web pages dedicated to detailing the steps to converting from Biguanides back to chlorine. Not sure if it's their misuse or what. For these reasons, we are skeptical of their use in pools and spas.

Advantages:

- Not affected by sunlight, temperature or pH

-May not irritate skin or eyes

-May not corrode pool equipment like oxidizers

-No smell

-Does not require a dispenser

-Degrades slowly

-Feels softer due to reduced water surface tension

Converting Biguanide Pools Back to Chlorine:

The following was emailed to us as a suggested method to convert back to chlorine:

STEP ONE: Stop adding your biquanide-chemicals. Allow levels to drop down very close to 0. You may want to run filter longer, and add poly-quat algacide when levels begin to get low. This process may take several weeks.

STEP TWO: Clean the filter. Biguanides can clog up filters, and leave chemical residue which may react with chlorine. If you have a Sand Filter, it is recommended that you CHANGE THE SAND in the tank. If this is not done, you must at least use a sand filter cleaning product made by your biguanide manufacturer. The same applies to Cartridge Filters. You should REPLACE THE CARTRIDGE, or at least clean it and then soak the cartridge in a similar cleaning product, and rinse thoroughly. If you have a D.E. filter, backwash it and open the filter tank; following printed instructions on tank. Remove filter, hose off thoroughly, then soak it in the cleaning product mentioned above. Hose again thoroughly and reassemble.

STEP THREE: Balance the pool water chemistry. Then shock the pool with NON-CHLORINE SHOCK, Also called potassium peroxymonosulfate. Add it at a rate of 8 lbs. per 10,000 gallons of pool water. So, if your pool is 22,000 gallons, you'll need 17 or 18 lbs. Add 1/2 the shock, wait 24-48 hrs and then add the remaining. Add the shock according to directions on package, with the filter pump running. Pool may turn cloudy for a few days if biguanide levels are not zero. Re-check and balance water chemistry. Run filter 24/7 until water clears, backwashing as necessary.

STEP FOUR: Finally, we begin to add chlorine, very slowly. Place one tablet in skimmer basket, floater or chlorinator. If your pool doesn't react to it (by turning funny colors) keep it in until it dissolves. Then add 2 tablets, and so on, until you are able to get chlorine readings of 1.0 ppm with your test kit. Maintain this level with tablets. Refrain from using chlorine shock products for one season, substituting non-chlorine shock, as needed.

A good time to switch may be in the spring, after a winter of not adding any baquacil or soft swim. I have heard reports of others who have said that they simply let their pool go very green, made sure the baquacil levels were 0 and then shocked it with chlorine.